Frequently Asked Questions

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Emus have a life expectancy of about 10-20 years in the wild and 35+ years in captivity. The oldest emu in the world was claimed to be 58 in 2020.  

Emu eggs are not hard to hatch but they do require special incubating conditions compared to other eggs. Optimal temperature and humidity must be respected and followed along with adequate ventilation. Most early embryonic death is due to mishandling of eggs, temperature spikes or inadequate airflow. 

There is always a risk when hatching eggs of any kind. Even in the wild, under perfect incubating conditions, every single egg may not remain viable. 

Unfortunately, emu eggs cannot be candled. We keep a higher male-to-female ratio and can only presume fertility based on observed breeding, frequent fertility checks, and past high fertility with successful hatches of healthy chicks. We believe our eggs to be capable of producing, but there is never a guarantee of viability or the outcome of what your hatch will be. Our multiple gene-diverse small mobs of emus are very well cared for and have consistently produced beautiful and healthy chicks. We make every effort possible to ensure our eggs are fertile by doing frequent fertility checks throughout the season. Many factors can contribute to an egg not hatching such as egg mishandling, incubator contamination, inadequate temperature or humidity ranges, improper or lack of turning, lack of airflow, or simply Mother Nature. 

Our customers have successfully hatched in Styrofoam Hova-bator, Nurture Right, Brinsea Ovation 56 X, Dickeys, and GQF cabinet incubators (with adequate trays/risers). Most importantly be familiar with your incubator and make sure it is stable before ever adding egg(s). 

For those thinking of hatching or raising emu chicks, we recommend The Emu Owners Handbook 1&2 by Maria and Philip Minnaar.

You can choose to weigh your hatching eggs to make sure they are losing weight appropriately. An emu egg should lose 13%-17% of its weight over the entire incubation period. If you notice that your egg weight loss is too much then you may need to increase humidity; or vice versa. If the weight loss measures are erratic then it may be because your humidity level has been fluctuating and need to be monitored closely. Smoother eggs may lose less weight than more dimpled eggs, which are more porous. You can apply tape to help those eggs that might be losing too quickly. Unfortunately, weight loss is not an indicator of viability because even "quitters" will lose weight. But, by weighing eggs and hatching at the required temp and humidity to lose the appropriate amount of weight you are giving it the best chance to hatch a healthy chick. If optimal conditions are not provided, including proper turning and adequate ventilation, there is a much greater chance for chick malpositioning, abnormalities, deformities, leg splay, slipped tendons, rotational disorders, or death.

We have never fed Ratite feed because it has been recognized for having higher fiber, iron, copper and zinc than emus require (because it was originally formulated for ostriches). If you choose to feed Ratite feed, it is important to add an extruded alfalfa-based rabbit pellet to aid in their digestion.

Emu are livestock, you do not need a special license to own them in Arkansas.

We could write a book on this but to keep it simple, emu are just special! They are hardy and easy keepers. Emus are curious, quirky, unique, and docile. Not only have they completely stolen our hearts but they are a species that offer many benefits to their environment! They help spread seeds, promote the germination of new plants, and keep large amounts of pesky insects away. 

Getting your chick home safely is the first very important step in your chicks care. Chicks can be anywhere from (around) 1 lb and 10" tall at hatch. They grow fast and can be 1.5-2.5 lbs and around 15-20" tall at 3 weeks old. Make sure you have something tall enough so they can stand if they want to and of course, don't forget the floor needs to be non-slip. Wire cages can be dangerous if they stick their necks or legs through. An enclosed med-large animal carrier is best with a non-slip rug, carpet, or mat cut to fit the bottom. Cardboard boxes (tall enough) with proper ventilation and flooring work just fine as well. Food/water while en route is not recommended if only traveling for a few hours.

We can tell our emu apart by their personalities and how they look but it can be tricky if you have several or haven't had them long. If you know your chicks' gender you can easily put a leg band on them when they are really little. But, as we've mentioned before emu chicks grow extremely fast and it's very important that you not let it get too tight. Another way of marking on an adolescent or adult would be safe Cattle paint. You can lift them where their feathers are lighter in color and apply paint there. This will deter others from pecking at colored feathers as well. Just reapply as needed.
 

Our emus eat between 1-2 lbs a day, depending on the season.

Because of their fast growth rate, raising emu chicks that are different ages can be challenging. It is common for emu farmers to store eggs just like males do in nature and hatch in clutches. Not only does this make it easier to care for chicks but also promotes stimulation during the hatching process and with eating, drinking and exercising after hatch. This requires storing eggs for several weeks. Per The Emu Owners Handbook the recommended temperature for emu egg storage (for the standard practice of no longer than 4 weeks) is 40-60 degrees. Recommended storage temps for extended storage is 40-50 degrees. Humidity is not much of a concern because of their large size and thick shells that protect against excessive weight loss due to evaporation.