Set up incubator in advance. After getting your eggs sit in a safe secure dry place for 24-48 hrs. Do not wash them or get them wet. They need to be at room temperature before adding to incubator. Add eggs to running stable incubator at recommended temp/humidity. Acceptable temp 97.0-97.5 Low humidity 25%-35% never over 35%(I keep mine 26-27% the entire time) You may achieve this by adding very little to no water at all. If you need to add water do it a small amount at a time and adjust accordingly. (you can use small medicine cups or coffee cups) I wouldn't pour water in a styrofoam incubator, instead sit a small cup inside. Don't rely solely on the incubator temp/humidity setting. Night and day humidity will be different so be aware of that. Use a couple accurate thermometers/hygrometers including a mercury thermometer inside the incubator. Emu eggs cannot be candled. Never float test. Hand turn (even if you have an auto turner) 3-5 times a day (always odd number of times). 90 degrees to the right 1st then 90 degrees back to the left and so on back and forth resulting in a 180 degree turn. You can put an A on one side and a B on the other, mark an arrow pointing to the right with a China marker or chalk on the egg to remind you which way to turn. This mimicks the natural rocking motion. The eggs are never turned a full 360 in nature. Be patient. You may see movement from egg at 35-38 days if you whistle to it. It takes 49-52 days average or sometimes even up to 60+ depending on what temp you are incubating at. Turn off auto turner at day 48 but continue to hand turn until they internally pip (if you hear whistling they have pipped) Fresh air is important! Leave ALL possible vents open. Open and close the incubator several times a day to allow fresh air in. Please note they will be getting fresh air exchange every time you open the incubator door to hand turn them. Never help a chick out of the shell. It can take 1-3 days from internal to external pip and 24hrs after that to hatch completely. They need that time to gain strength and absorb the yolk sac which will keep them nourished up to 5 days after hatching. 

-Chicks need flat, cushioned (not concrete) non slip surfaces at all times. Slipped tendons can happen and is hard to correct.
-Feed 18% UNmedicated chick crumble and ground up alfalfa based rabbit pellets
-Rooster Booster mineral pellets added in chick crumble mix
-Minced kale/cabbage/carrots 1-2 X a day
-B12 liquid human version (no xylitol) added to water
-Use a dish they can't easily slip in or knock over, they scoop to drink so poultry waterers do not work well
-Make some noise: getting them acclimated to sounds while young helps when they are older
-Spend alot of time with your chick so they will bond with you
-Housing: As chicks: predator proof enclosure (brooder), they cannot defend themselves. Heat source on one side (until feathered)
Non slick flat cushioned surface. No trip hazards like blankets or toys
Juvenille/adults: access to a three sided covered shelter (although mine rarely go in😅) Emu love all weather conditions and are very hardy in rain, sleet, snow, ice and hot humid summers
-Emu are typically full grown around 12-14 mths old and will be around 5-6ft tall
-Adequate fencing: (suggested 5'-6') *You can achieve this by adding taller T post to existing fencing with regular wire, board or string (something visual) at the top. Again, predator proof as much as possible. An emu will have no desire to "run away" from his family and home unless something was chasing it
-Toxic substances: teflon (cookware) fumes, air fresheners, medicated chick feed, goat feed high in copper, dewormers, advacado, black walnut trees, baited mice, lawn fertilizer, wild
cherry, stone fruit trees, nightshade,
hemlock, pokeweed,
azaleas, bracken fern
creeping indigo, sago
palms, fireweed and some mushrooms.
Your local co op should have
a list of toxic
plant species in your
area
-Poop: emu both pee and poop from their cloaca. Consistency can range from semi firm to an all out splat. Good news is it has almost no odor.
-They love all shiny things, be mindful of your earrings/jewelry or small pieces of metal
 -Emu are naturally parasite resistant. In heavy horse populated areas you can choose to vaccinate for EEE, Equine Encephalitis or West Nile Virus.
-Juvenile and adult diet can consist of chkn pellets transitioned to layer pellets, alfalfa based rabbit pellets, mini chunk dog food, chkn scratch, black oil sunflower seeds, mealworms, Rooster Booster mineral pellets, frozen/fresh fruits and vegetables. Mine love frozen peas/carrots and blueberries. They also forage grass/insects all day long

-Always introduce new emu to existing mob slowly, especially with adults. Keep them separate but where they can see each other for several weeks and be prepared to separate if necessary. Having multiple feed, water and cover areas is extremely helpful.