Set up your incubator in advance to make sure it is stable. Have a plan for power outages in case they occur. After getting home with your egg(s) set in a safe secure dry place for 24-48 hrs. Do not wash them or get them wet. They will need to be at room temperature before adding to the incubator.
Incubators used to hatch emu eggs include the Styrofoam Hova-bator, Nurture Right, Brinsea Ovation 56 X, Dickeys, or GQF cabinet incubators. Most importantly be familiar with your incubator and make sure it is stable before ever adding egg(s).
Acceptable temp: 97.0-97.5. LOW humidity 25%-30% MAX! Too high WILL drown a growing chick. We prefer to stay under 27%. You may achieve this by adding very little to no water at all. If you need to add water do it a small amount at a time accordingly using a shot glass or coffee cup. Never just pour water into an incubator. Remember it is the water surface area you want to adjust not the depth of the water. A bowl of uncooked rice inside will lower humidity. Sometimes a shot glass of water and a small cup of rice will do the trick, it just depends on your climate and what works best for you.
Don't rely solely on the incubator temp/humidity setting. Use a calibrated thermometer and hygrometer with fresh batteries including a mercury thermometer inside the incubator. Multiple inaccurate thermometers in an incubator is a nightmare. Remember, daytime and nighttime humidity will be different. For peace of mind, we like smart hygrometers that alert you if your temperature or humidity gets out of range. Incubators rely on stable room temperatures to work effectively. If you're having humidity fluctuations consider the room that your incubator is in. Fix the humidity in the room first (you may need a dehumidifier/humidifier). Another option for controlling humidity is the HumidiKit. It adds water automatically to increase humidity only when needed. It can be found on Amazon or Incubator Warehouse.
Emu eggs cannot be candled. Never float test. Hand turn 180 (even if you have an auto turner) 3-5 times a day (always an odd number of times). To the left first, then right, left, and so on, back and forth. Do not turn the egg over and over in the same direction. You can put an A on one side and a B on the other and/or mark an arrow with a china marker on the egg to remind you which way to turn. This mimics the natural rocking motion. The eggs are never turned a full 360 in nature as this would disorient the chick. Be patient. You MAY see movement from the egg at 35+ days if you whistle to it. It takes 49-52 days on average or sometimes even up to 60+ depending on what temp you are incubating at. I would allow them up to 70 days unless smelly or oozing which would indicate an embryonic death. Turn off the auto turner on day 48 but continue to hand turn until they internally pip (if you hear whistling they have pipped)
FRESH AIR is VERY important during the incubation process! Leave ALL possible air vents open. Open and close the incubator SEVERAL times a day to let bad air out and good air in!!! If there isn't enough fresh air your chick can suffocate. This is even more important in smaller tabletop incubators. Overcrowding your incubator will require even more fresh air exchange.
There is no "lock-down" and you DO NOT increase humidity at the end like with other eggs. The humidity will naturally increase as they break free from their shell (another reason to keep your humidity on the LOW side). NEVER help a chick out of the shell this is VERY important!!! Do NOT detach the chick from the eggshell. Patience is key here. It can take 1-3 days from internal to external pip and 24 hrs after that to hatch completely. If and only if your chick has internally pipped but not externally pipped in 3 days and is sounding weaker, you can choose to drill a "safety" air hole. Please reach out before moving forward. You can remove the chick(s) from the hatcher and place them in the brooder after they are dry.